Petrol vs diesel vs hybrid vs EV

A more expensive car can save money on fuel. Enter up to five vehicles and see the energy cost, the total over the years and when the extra price is paid back.

Vehicles to compare

Use litres per 100 km for fuel vehicles and kWh per 100 km for electric ones. Energy price is rand per litre, or per kWh for charging at home. The starting figures are examples.

Charging an electric car

Rand per kWh. An example, not a current price.

Charger and battery losses. Check the manufacturer or your own records.

Lowest purchase plus energy cost over 8 years

Diesel car

Petrol car
R 621 920
Diesel car
R 602 160
Hybrid car
R 605 520
Electric car
R 747 280

Diesel car costs R 40 000 more to buy than Petrol car and saves R 623 a month in energy, so the extra price is paid back after 5 years 5 months.

Hybrid car costs R 70 000 more to buy than Petrol car and saves R 900 a month in energy, so the extra price is paid back after 6 years 6 months.

Electric car costs R 270 000 more to buy than Petrol car and saves R 1 507 a month in energy, so the extra price is paid back after 15 years 0 months.

This compares purchase price and energy only. It leaves out insurance, servicing, tyres and resale value, which differ between vehicles. Use the ownership cost calculator for the full picture.

Estimates only. Not financial advice.

Total spent on buying and fuel

Running costs side by side

Energy cost for each vehicle
VehicleTypePurchase priceEnergy per kmEnergy a monthPrice plus energy
Petrol carPetrolR 380 000R 1.68R 2 520R 621 920
Diesel carDieselR 420 000R 1.27R 1 898R 602 160
Hybrid carHybridR 450 000R 1.08R 1 620R 605 520
Electric carElectricR 650 000R 0.68R 1 013R 747 280

How the petrol vs diesel vs hybrid vs ev works

Last updated 10 November 2026

Electric and hybrid cars usually cost more to buy and less to run. Whether that pays off depends on how far you drive and on the price of fuel and electricity. This tool puts both sides in one table.

How it works

  • Fuel cars: litres per 100 km × price per litre.
  • Electric cars: kWh per 100 km ÷ (1 − charging loss), times the blended electricity price.
  • Total = purchase price + energy cost per month × 12 × years.
  • Break-even = extra purchase price ÷ monthly energy saving, against the cheapest car to buy.

Worked example

With the starting figures:

  1. The cheapest vehicle to buy and run over the period is Diesel car.
  2. Each vehicle’s energy cost a month: Petrol car R 2 520, Diesel car R 1 898, Hybrid car R 1 620, Electric car R 1 013.

How to read your result

The table shows each vehicle’s energy cost a month and its total over the years you chose, which is the purchase price plus the energy for the whole period. The cheapest is the one with the lowest total.

Where a vehicle costs more to buy but less to run, a note shows how many months of energy savings it takes to cover the extra price, measured against the cheapest vehicle to buy. If a vehicle never saves enough, no break-even is shown.

The chart and the table hold the same figures, so you can use whichever is easier to read.

Comparing litres and kilowatt-hours

Fuel cars use litres per hundred kilometres. Electric cars use kilowatt-hours (kWh) per hundred kilometres. The tool multiplies each by its own price, so the two end up as a rand cost a month.

For electric cars, the energy lost while charging is added on top of what the car uses. The price used is a blend of your home electricity price and the public charging price, weighted by the share you charge at home.

Hybrids are entered as a fuel vehicle with their own, lower, litres per hundred kilometres. The tool does not model how a hybrid splits its work between engine and battery, so use a figure that reflects your driving.

Where the numbers come from

The starting figures are examples, not today’s prices. For a fair comparison, check these inputs:

  • Consumption: use real-world figures if you have them, such as from the car’s trip computer or your own fill-ups.
  • Fuel prices: petrol and diesel prices change often, so use the current pump price.
  • Electricity price: use your own tariff for home charging and the price on the charger for public charging.
  • Distance: the more you drive, the more the running cost counts against the purchase price.

What this does not cover

This tool looks at purchase price and energy only. It leaves out insurance, services, tyres, finance interest and resale value, and these can differ a lot between a petrol car and an electric one. It also does not cover the cost of installing a home charger or any battery warranty terms. For the wider picture, use the car ownership cost calculator.

Things to watch

  • The fuel and electricity prices are examples. Use current prices, and your own charging mix.
  • Consumption figures from manufacturers are lower than most real-world driving.
  • Public fast charging is usually much more expensive than charging at home.

For the full cost including insurance and resale, use the car ownership cost calculator. Read the full disclaimer.

Questions people ask

How is electric running cost worked out?

Energy used per 100 km is divided by one minus the charging loss, because some power is lost between the plug and the battery. The price is a blend of your home tariff and the public charging price, in the share you choose.

What is break-even?

It is the time it takes for lower running costs to pay back a higher purchase price, compared with the cheapest car to buy.

What is not included?

Insurance, servicing, tyres, resale value and finance. Use the ownership cost calculator for those.

Estimates only. Not financial advice. Read the full disclaimer.